For Autumn/Winter ’16 Paul Smith grasps his past, investigating some of his outline marks including stripe, print and customising. Stripes are repeating, woven into cashmere knitwear and running the length of customised coats. Customising garments are designed to consolidate Lurex pinstripes and small scale houndstooth. Dinosaur prints and sewed jacquards peep from underneath the layers while digitally-printed peaches on specialised aircraft coats reference Paul’s spearheading utilisation of photograph printing strategies. By grasping the free soul of the late-60s and mid-70s, lip-formed fastenings on cowhide belts and tasselled loafers are done with toadstool and peace sign charms.
Outerwear is a core interest. The Epsom coat is the centrepiece of the accumulation and is presented in a broad number of ways: sheepskin and cashmere, crested lapels and scored lapels, single and twofold breasted. Coats are styled on top of layers of exemplary customising and bright knitwear, trousers are frequently flared and heeled cowhide boots reach out over the lower leg. Paul’s endless enthusiasm for cycling illuminates the shading palette where differentiating shades of peach and brilliant green regularly shapes stripes that are reminiscent of the clearly illuminate sewed shirts worn by the saints of the game.
click play to view the PAUL SMITH FW2016 MEN RUNWAY.
The blog post “PAUL SMITH FW2016 MEN RUNWAY” published on ChristianGertsen.com – Dutch Men’s blog.
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